Carnival through an Englishman’s eyes

As the city carnival floats slowly meandered down Transistmica in the blistering heat close to my residence in Bethania, my mind wandered back to any comparative event between my native country England and the carnivals held here in Panama.

I was interested to read about the origin of the Panama’s carnival celebrations; the existing divide between uptown (Calle Arriba) and downtown (Calle Abajo). Even though there is some debate most people believe that everything started in Las Tablas, Province of Los Santos more than a century ago. There were two towns called Hermitage of the Holy Cross and Calidonia.

A dispute arose over two different patronal feast celebrations. At the point where two streets or towns met they would clash and throw cutting remarks at each other, all to the rhythm of the tamborito. Even though there was much noise and banter the only thing possibly hurt was their pride.

This tradition continues to this day and in fact attracts throngs of tourists to the annual celebration.

The Government had budgeted over four million dollars to the Nations Capital to ensure that this four day spectacular celebration was enjoyed by all participants and onlookers.

The closest comparison we have in England is called ‘Football’ in North America they call it ‘Soccer’. This is where two rival teams of supporters from the same city meet normally once a year.

The festivities normally start at a local drinking establishment (pub) close to the ground of play. To alleviate any nerves or inhibitions one must drink many pints of strong beer but, not to the point of drunkenness as you have to sing loudly all the words of your teams football anthems.

Once you have successfully annoyed enough of the regular clientele you normally move outside or not, and have a major fight. This can involve broken bottles, tables and chairs, and if you are one of the less fortunate knives.

If you have survived this hooliganism you make your way to the game. There you drink more beer and eat extortionately expensive traditional meat pies or American exports a hamburger or a hotdog.

Hopefully you can still focus sufficiently to see if your team wins. However, if you are a football hooligan this is not really as important as one would think. Finally if you are still able to move after this violent, glutinous behavior you are meant to chase the opposing supporters back to their neighborhood with much profanity and further threats of violence hoping you can repeat the same ritual next season.

As you can see the cultures are slightly different! Admittedly my recollection was in the 1970’s and not as common today but, if you are lucky you can still witness this spectacle between local town rivals. But this is not a great tourist attraction unlike your carnival and I suggest if you visit England, you just watch the carnage on television.

I suppose there is some similarity in relation to the cost of the celebration as there is much vandalism and even though it probably does not require a budget in excess of your four million dollars, ours is only for one afternoon a year in various parts of the country.

I should just mention that the only time I have seen any type of aggression from Panamanians is when you are driving and stuck in traffic, then the veil of the ‘diablo’ descends on you and erratic behavior could surface

Yes; I think in the future I will stay in Panama and watch the Carnival in person or on television as one does not require life insurance for your celebration!