Hooked on a feeling

I have heard rumors of a mythical fishing lodge where fishing virgins are transformed into seasoned pros.

A failed fisherman and eternal optimist, I find myself seated in a tiny charter plane en route to one of the top fishing resorts in the world, the Tropic Star Lodge in the Darien.

An hour later, we rise sharply over Mount Cerra Pina, and drop spectacularly onto the seaside runway.

Somebody wisely hands out cocktails as we deplane. We pile into a tractor-pulled wagon, and begin a breathtaking journey through primal Darien jungle to Pinas Bay.

My fellow fishermen and women consist of an eclectic collection of Americans, Canadians, Europeans, South Americans and a Panamanian.

According to their web site, morefishing records have been set at the Tropic Star Lodge than anywhere else in the world.

But a truly great resort requires more than splashy fishing records, and since the lodge counts world leaders, movie stars and captains of industry among its clientele, I am hoping for more than improved fortune on the open water.

We arrive at the lodge, and are met by our hosts, owners Terri and Mike Andrews. Over a spectacular communal dinner, we begin to experience the uniqueness of the lodge.

The multi-course meal is spectacular, our hosts warm and welcoming, and their lodge casual and beautiful.

With a dawn awakening ahead of me, I bid my fishing comrades good night and retreat to my rustically elegant room. Tomorrow I shall see if The Tropic Star can accomplish the hitherto impossible, and make a fisherman out of me.

To portray myself as a deep-sea fishing underachiever would be an understatement. On each of three previous attempts, hungry predators ate my catch before I managed to haul a torn, bodiless head aboard.

But hope, as they say, springs eternal, and after a five-star breakfast the next morning my crew and I are on the open saltwater, and I find myself where I have been three times before — in the aptly named fighting chair.

Before long, a magnificent sailfish blasts out of the water. Twice my height and over half my weight, it rises again and again out of the water, struggling to tear the $1000 rod out of my hands. The mate snaps photos of my battle. I haul back, reeling in the test line as fast as I can. He breaks water, fighting harder than before, and takes 60 meters of line with him.

I start over, reeling him in as hard as I can. He goes deep and then races towards the boat. I furiously twirl the handle. All he needs is a little slack — a quick jerk and the line will snap.

A loose line can easily backlash and become entangled in the spool. He tries circling the boat to snare the line, but the captain comes to my rescue, manipulating throttles and steering wheel like a NASCAR pro.

He plows the boat backwards, splashing water over the aft rail of the cockpit. He then lurches suddenly forward, spins around and races to keep pace with my monster of the deep.

My arms are burning jelly. Just as I am about to lose him he rises out of the water and stays on the surface, signaling his exhaustion and capitulation.

With all my remaining strength I reel him into the boat. The mate takes a photo and slips the circle hook off. He slowly descends, his cold eyes staring me down as he disappears back into the deep.

This is the largest fish I have ever seen in the flesh, but nowhere close to a record ? maybe so, but he is my champion fish.

The Tropic Star Lodge was an experience I will never forget. Like the song says, I am hooked on the feeling. Treat yourself, and you will be hooked as well.

The detective’s web site is: http://www.retirementdetectives.com Rates:

All rates include a 31 foot Bertram yacht, captain, mate, fuel, tackle, air conditioned room, all meals, wine/beer: High season Dec 9 – March 12 = $2,800 per non-fishing person in The Palace (sleeps 6) to $4,995 per person per week (4 persons to a boat).

Surcharges for fewer than four per boat apply. Partial weeks and non-fishing rates are available.

There are no roads to Pinas Bay. Air Panama or Aeroperlas have flights from Albrook Airport, $500 return. In Panama: www.tropicstar.com, (507) 232-8375. In the US: 1-800 682-3424.